Retinol: The Missing Piece In Your Skincare Routine

Something I’ve realized over the last few years is that skincare can be a controversial topic. Everyone—dermatologists, estheticians, people like you and me—has their own opinion on what products are the best, and which are actually worth your money. Through my work at Pure Joy Wellness, I’ve had the opportunity to speak to and collaborate with many different experts, from estheticians to dermatologists and more. This means I’ve had the chance to ask people at the forefront of their field: What products and ingredients actually make a difference? Nearly everyone I’ve surveyed had the same response: RETINOL. So in this week’s post, I’m giving you a primer on retinol. My hope is that with all of this info, you have the knowledge you need to decide if retinol is something you want to use.

Let’s get into it. 

First thing’s first, what is retinol? What does it do?

Retinol is a type of vitamin A that is used as an ingredient in many skincare products, like serums and creams. It’s considered a potent, powerful ingredient, because of its ability to promote cell turnover. Now, what does that mean? Well, there comes a point in every single skin cell's journey when it dies, sheds off, and a new one replaces it. Basically, retinol speeds this process up, acting as both an exfoliant and a catalyst for skin cell regeneration. It can also enhance collagen production, which, if you’ve read the blog before, is a very, very important protein in the body that affects our skin’s elasticity. 

When retinol is introduced into a skincare routine—at a slow, measured pace—whoever’s using it can expect to see significant changes in their skin. Retinol is known for its ability to produce brighter, healthier looking skin, and minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, sun damage, you name it. It’s truly a powerhouse ingredient. 

Who should and shouldn’t use retinol? 

Whenever I’ve asked skin experts about retinol, I always ask who should use it, and they acknowledge that it’s not for everyone. Women who are around the age of 30 or older are usually the ones seeking out retinol (as they want to mitigate premature signs of aging), but some younger women use it too to prevent aging signs in the first place. 

In terms of who shouldn’t use retinol, it’s not recommended for people with dry or sensitive skin, or for those with rosacea. If you have any of those characteristics or conditions and you still want to use retinol, you should definitely talk to a dermatologist before adding anything new to your routine. Otherwise, most skin types can benefit from using retinol, whether your skin is oily or dry. Retinol has also yielded a lot of phenomenal results for those with acne and blemishes, because it manages oiliness and decreases the frequency of clogged pores and blackheads. And if you have acne scars, retinol can help lighten or fade them. 

What you should know before you use retinol

Now that you know the benefits, you might be thinking that you need to run out and grab a retinol product right this minute! But slow your roll…there are a few things you should know first. 

1. Using too much retinol, too soon and too frequently can lead to some serious skin issues. 

Like I said before, retinol is powerful. It’s not something that you can “feel working,” so it can be tempting to slather it on your face and think that more product will cause better results. Let me make this clear: This is not the case. Using too much of your retinol product, using it too frequently, and/or using it with other potent ingredients can cause what’s called “retinol burn.” This can take a few forms, but it usually looks like super red, inflamed skin that is extremely dry, flakey/shedding, and painful to the touch. 

Retinol is not an ingredient that you should be caking on your face; a pea size drop is sufficient for your whole face. To apply it, just dot it around your whole face, gently rub it in, and follow up with a basic moisturizer, like the Cerave Moisturizing Lotion or Cerave Moisturizing Cream. This will help you combat the dryness that can come as you start using retinol. And seriously, START SLOW. Use your retinol once a week, then twice a week at the beginning and end of the week, then maybe every other day. Pay attention to your skin and how it’s responding. If it’s flaring up or getting super dry, skip a day to give it a break.

2. Do not use retinol with other products that have active ingredients. 

Another word to the wise: If you are currently using other products with powerful ingredients, like AHAs (e.g. glycolic or lactic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid), you’ll want to discontinue those while using retinol to play it safe. The same goes for vitamin C products and benzoyl peroxide—these are contraindicated for retinol, and using them together can cause serious irritation. I also find it best to stick to products without fragrances, as they can cause irritation too. Talking to a dermatologist can help you know which products you can and can’t use with your retinol. 

3. Make sure to wear sunscreen with retinol. 

Like other active skincare ingredients, retinol will make your skin sensitive to sunburn and sun damage, so it’s absolutely essential that you wear sunscreen. Most people apply their retinol at night, and you don’t have to wear sunscreen over it at night, but even after you wash the retinol off of your face in the morning, you need to apply sunscreen before going outside. If you need a product recommendation, I’ve got a list of my favorite sunscreens here!

To wrap up, here are three of my favorite retinol products…

Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Retinol Face Moisturizer with SPF 30 Sunscreen, Daily Anti-Aging Face Cream with Retinol & Hyaluronic Acid ($20.37)

  • This product is a retinol, moisturizer, and sunscreen all in one! A true triple threat. 

The Ordinary Retinol 1% in Squalane ($15.74)

  • This product is a gentle and effective form of retinol. It’s easy to apply, and it contains squalane, which is moisturizing. Even though it’s gentle, remember: don’t overload your face. 

Charlotte Tilbury Magic Night Rescue Cream 50Ml ($121.70)

  • Another multi-purpose product, this rescue cream contains retinol and it’s a powerful, nighttime moisturizer to get ahead of dryness. 

Whether or not you choose to start using retinol, I hope that this blog post gave you some valuable information, and that you feel better equipped to make decisions in you and your skin’s best interests!

Xo, 

Renata